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	<title>Comments for Blondihacks</title>
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	<lastBuildDate>Sat, 11 May 2013 17:42:23 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Comment on Salad Spinner Upgrade by Quinn Dunki</title>
		<link>http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=199#comment-3718</link>
		<dc:creator>Quinn Dunki</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 May 2013 17:42:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blondihacks.wordpress.com/?p=199#comment-3718</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This has been one of my more surprising entries. Apparently a lot of people bought this thing and had it fail the same way. I never expected the level of feedback I have received on this post.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This has been one of my more surprising entries. Apparently a lot of people bought this thing and had it fail the same way. I never expected the level of feedback I have received on this post.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Salad Spinner Upgrade by Matt</title>
		<link>http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=199#comment-3717</link>
		<dc:creator>Matt</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 May 2013 17:21:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blondihacks.wordpress.com/?p=199#comment-3717</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Wow.  I thought I would take a chance that someone had the same problem, but I didn&#039;t expect the detail and pics. (or the humor) Thanks a lot for posting this!
Mp]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Wow.  I thought I would take a chance that someone had the same problem, but I didn&#8217;t expect the detail and pics. (or the humor) Thanks a lot for posting this!<br />
Mp</p>
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		<title>Comment on Two-Layer PCB Etching by Quinn Dunki</title>
		<link>http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=1267#comment-3713</link>
		<dc:creator>Quinn Dunki</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 May 2013 13:16:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=1267#comment-3713</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Very interesting! Thanks for sharing that. I may have to give that a try.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Very interesting! Thanks for sharing that. I may have to give that a try.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Two-Layer PCB Etching by beaka</title>
		<link>http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=1267#comment-3712</link>
		<dc:creator>beaka</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 May 2013 12:38:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=1267#comment-3712</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Good to see your process. I developed a way of plating through the holes using simple home available materials. When I get around to making a blog I will document it properly but it goes like this:
Drill the holes in unetched board. Fill holes with artists graphite paint, wipe off surface of board then plate with copper sulphate solution with a drop of antifreeze to brighten. Polish the board afterwards and coat with photo or do the iron thing. 
Paint a blob of paint over the plated holes. Expose and etch.
Clean off the paint/toner/resist and voila a double sided board with plated through holes.
I found the trick with the graphite paint in old handcraft books from the 1920&#039;s.
Sounds complicated but the plating is easy once you get your setup established.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Good to see your process. I developed a way of plating through the holes using simple home available materials. When I get around to making a blog I will document it properly but it goes like this:<br />
Drill the holes in unetched board. Fill holes with artists graphite paint, wipe off surface of board then plate with copper sulphate solution with a drop of antifreeze to brighten. Polish the board afterwards and coat with photo or do the iron thing.<br />
Paint a blob of paint over the plated holes. Expose and etch.<br />
Clean off the paint/toner/resist and voila a double sided board with plated through holes.<br />
I found the trick with the graphite paint in old handcraft books from the 1920&#8242;s.<br />
Sounds complicated but the plating is easy once you get your setup established.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Cheap, Friendly, and Accurate PCB Etching by Quinn Dunki</title>
		<link>http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=351#comment-3707</link>
		<dc:creator>Quinn Dunki</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 May 2013 15:40:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=351#comment-3707</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[That&#039;s a cool idea, thanks for sharing!  In the end, I broke down and bought a Dremel drill press. I had a large board to make with a few hundred holes to drill, so the $30 was worth it. One of those things that, as soon as I had it, I wished I&#039;d bought it sooner. :)]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>That&#8217;s a cool idea, thanks for sharing!  In the end, I broke down and bought a Dremel drill press. I had a large board to make with a few hundred holes to drill, so the $30 was worth it. One of those things that, as soon as I had it, I wished I&#8217;d bought it sooner. <img src='http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
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		<title>Comment on Cheap, Friendly, and Accurate PCB Etching by crb3</title>
		<link>http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=351#comment-3706</link>
		<dc:creator>crb3</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 May 2013 07:20:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=351#comment-3706</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[If you&#039;ve got an electric eraser (as used in drafting. Mars-Staedler, Bruning, -- full-sized, not mini) and can get an Xacto double-ended pin vise, you can put together a more comfy and fit-to-function hand drill for pc boards. Remove the collet from one end of the pin vise and screw it into the nose of the electric eraser (after removing any eraser stock). Put your fine (#69? #65 is my go-to) bit into the still-colleted end of the pin vise and tighten it up.

You now have a pc board drill that&#039;s low enough in torque not to develop a mind of its own as to where the holes should be (unlike Dremel etc). It&#039;s thus less likely to skitter away and snap bits. If the bit jams, just counter-rotate to unscrew it from the hole, clean the debris from the hole-thus-far, then come at the hole again, slower, letting the drill do the muscle-work without you leaning into it. That applies whether you&#039;re drilling out a just-etched board or making some kluge space in one corner of an existing board (use a clamped-on piece of perfboard as a guide if you want 0.1&quot; centers). Oh, and it&#039;s likely lighter than the Dremel, too, which matters in not having muscle fatigue cause you to mess up drilling a board full of holes.

I&#039;ve been doing this for decades, now, and, after using Dremel, Fordham, Iso-Tip drill extension and various other drill-type tools, I keep coming back to my Bruning. It just *thought* it could retire when I went from the drafting table to OrCAD.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you&#8217;ve got an electric eraser (as used in drafting. Mars-Staedler, Bruning, &#8212; full-sized, not mini) and can get an Xacto double-ended pin vise, you can put together a more comfy and fit-to-function hand drill for pc boards. Remove the collet from one end of the pin vise and screw it into the nose of the electric eraser (after removing any eraser stock). Put your fine (#69? #65 is my go-to) bit into the still-colleted end of the pin vise and tighten it up.</p>
<p>You now have a pc board drill that&#8217;s low enough in torque not to develop a mind of its own as to where the holes should be (unlike Dremel etc). It&#8217;s thus less likely to skitter away and snap bits. If the bit jams, just counter-rotate to unscrew it from the hole, clean the debris from the hole-thus-far, then come at the hole again, slower, letting the drill do the muscle-work without you leaning into it. That applies whether you&#8217;re drilling out a just-etched board or making some kluge space in one corner of an existing board (use a clamped-on piece of perfboard as a guide if you want 0.1&#8243; centers). Oh, and it&#8217;s likely lighter than the Dremel, too, which matters in not having muscle fatigue cause you to mess up drilling a board full of holes.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve been doing this for decades, now, and, after using Dremel, Fordham, Iso-Tip drill extension and various other drill-type tools, I keep coming back to my Bruning. It just *thought* it could retire when I went from the drafting table to OrCAD.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Veronica &#8211; RAM Board by blondihacks</title>
		<link>http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=1291#comment-3695</link>
		<dc:creator>blondihacks</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Apr 2013 04:01:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=1291#comment-3695</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[That&#039;s all good information, BDD- thanks for sharing!]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>That&#8217;s all good information, BDD- thanks for sharing!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Comment on Veronica &#8211; RAM Board by BigDumbDinosaur</title>
		<link>http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=1291#comment-3694</link>
		<dc:creator>BigDumbDinosaur</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Apr 2013 03:57:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=1291#comment-3694</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Oh, almost forgot.

False bus states aren&#039;t a problem with a 65C02, but are with the NMOS 6502 and in some cases, can cause I/O silicon to misbehave.  The 65C816 generates false bus states during some instructions but WDC thoughtfully provides the VDA and VPA outputs on that MPU to indicate when the address bus is valid.

:)]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Oh, almost forgot.</p>
<p>False bus states aren&#8217;t a problem with a 65C02, but are with the NMOS 6502 and in some cases, can cause I/O silicon to misbehave.  The 65C816 generates false bus states during some instructions but WDC thoughtfully provides the VDA and VPA outputs on that MPU to indicate when the address bus is valid.</p>
<p> <img src='http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
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		<title>Comment on Veronica &#8211; RAM Board by BigDumbDinosaur</title>
		<link>http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=1291#comment-3693</link>
		<dc:creator>BigDumbDinosaur</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Apr 2013 03:53:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=1291#comment-3693</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[&quot;There is no guarantee that the CPU won’t put stuff out on the bus during this time, and it may cause random memory to be overwritten. In my case, I include the phase 2 clock signal in my address decode, so that RAM cannot be activated when the clock is low.&quot;

Using Ø2 to qualify address decoding is actually incorrect for the 65xx family.  In your particular case, you can get away with it because you aren&#039;t using any 65xx peripheral devices (e.g., 6522 or 6551).  If you were, you&#039;d be dismayed to discover the peripheral devices to be unresponsive.  The chip selects for those devices must be valid before the rise of Ø2.

Where you should be using Ø2 is to qualify read/write ops.  Most SRAMs have separate &quot;output enable&quot; (/OE) and &quot;write enable&quot; (/WE) inputs, as well as a &quot;chip select&quot; (/CS) input.  /CS should be asserted as soon as an appropriate address appears on A0-A15 (generally about midway through Ø2 low).  /OE or /WE, depending on whether it&#039;s a read or write operation, should be asserted when Ø2 goes high.  That way, false bus states that occur during intermediate stages of instruction processing can&#039;t randomly scribble in your RAM.  Simple gates can take care of the Ø2 qualification logic.

:)]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>&#8220;There is no guarantee that the CPU won’t put stuff out on the bus during this time, and it may cause random memory to be overwritten. In my case, I include the phase 2 clock signal in my address decode, so that RAM cannot be activated when the clock is low.&#8221;</p>
<p>Using Ø2 to qualify address decoding is actually incorrect for the 65xx family.  In your particular case, you can get away with it because you aren&#8217;t using any 65xx peripheral devices (e.g., 6522 or 6551).  If you were, you&#8217;d be dismayed to discover the peripheral devices to be unresponsive.  The chip selects for those devices must be valid before the rise of Ø2.</p>
<p>Where you should be using Ø2 is to qualify read/write ops.  Most SRAMs have separate &#8220;output enable&#8221; (/OE) and &#8220;write enable&#8221; (/WE) inputs, as well as a &#8220;chip select&#8221; (/CS) input.  /CS should be asserted as soon as an appropriate address appears on A0-A15 (generally about midway through Ø2 low).  /OE or /WE, depending on whether it&#8217;s a read or write operation, should be asserted when Ø2 goes high.  That way, false bus states that occur during intermediate stages of instruction processing can&#8217;t randomly scribble in your RAM.  Simple gates can take care of the Ø2 qualification logic.</p>
<p> <img src='http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
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		<title>Comment on Veronica &#8211; RAM Board by Quinn Dunki</title>
		<link>http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=1291#comment-3687</link>
		<dc:creator>Quinn Dunki</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 23 Apr 2013 15:52:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=1291#comment-3687</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I did try fritzing once. It&#039;s pretty, but I found the framerate of the rendering too low to be useful.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I did try fritzing once. It&#8217;s pretty, but I found the framerate of the rendering too low to be useful.</p>
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